When playing competitive pickleball, you want to make things hard for your opponents. Too often, though, we play into their hands, giving them advantages without meaning to.

Advantage #1: Allowing your oppo-nents to take position at the net.
When you're serving, your opponents already have the advantage since one of them starts at the non-volley zone line. Then a few years ago, the "third shot drop shot rule" came into favor. The thought was that using the softer, slower drop shot would allow you and your partner to move up from the baseline (where you were stuck as servers because of the double bounce rule) and get to the net. 

That made sense—but returning a drop shot also allows your opponent in the back court to run up to the non-volley zone. That's not what you want. 

The net position affords many advantages. At the net:

• you can reach a greater number of shots without moving very far;
• you can return balls faster and with more momentum;
• you can target positions on the court with better accuracy;
• your opponents can't target your feet;
  and the greatest reason is . . .
• you can hit DOWN.​

[For in-depth information, read my post, "Get Thee to the Non-Volley Zone Line!]
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​Advantage #2: ​Hitting the ball in an upward arc within the opponent's reach.
The farther you are from the non-volley zone line, the more you must angle the ball up to get it over the net. Any ball traveling in an upward arc is ripe for a put-away smash that may be hard or impossible for you to return. One of the hardest things for me as a new player was to keep the ball low over the net. 

If you have to bend to retrieve a shot or otherwise return an upward-moving ball, return a soft shot: drop shot, dink, or lob. Which you chose depends on where you are on the court and other conditions. From the back or mid court, choose the drop shot. When at the net, dink. A lob over your opponents' heads can sometimes be beneficial as it sends at least one opponent back and may give you time to move up to the NVZ.

Advantage #3: Playing offense more than defense.
More points are won in pickleball by playing a good defense than a good offense.

• Keeping the ball in play is foremost. If you can do only that, you will win every point, because eventually your opponent will fault. You don't need to make fancy corner shots or hard line drives. Just keep the ball in the court and don't fault.
• Think ahead. Consider what your opponents will do next and prepare for it. Watch their eyes and body angles, as those will help you know where they're aiming their shot.
• Study strategies so you'll know automatically which shot to make in each situation and how to counter your opponents' tactics. 

It's up to you to make your opponents' game difficult. Be tough!

In doubles play, poaching occurs when a player hits a ball directed toward his or her partner.
Poaching can be planned—something arranged ahead of time with your partner—or unplanned when the moment presents itself.
         But why poach the ball?
     A well-executed poach can alleviate a situation when your partner is targeted by the opponents as the weaker player and receives all the shots. Stepping across to return the ball is an unexpected move that can throw the opponents off and relieve your partner, at least momentarily.
       Poaching is also done to allow the person with the (usually stronger) forehand to take the shot. With two right-handed players, the person on the right (even) side has his backhand to center. The partner on the left (odd) side can poach effectively with her stronger forehand. The situation is reversed with two lefties. If you and your partner are opposite handed, or if you switch hands during play, decide who will retrieve shots down the middle. Poaching opportunities are fewer when both players’ backhands are to center and should probably be avoided, unless an unusual opportunity presents itself.
       Three types of poaches are common:

1. The partner on the left (odd) side reaches farther than usual with her center forehand, snatching what is hoped to be a winning shot, and moves back when done. A good time to execute this poach is when your partner is still in the back court. This type of poach works best with shots that fly a little higher and/or slower than a typical drive would.
2. The partner on the left (odd) side moves across into his partner’s even court. Pre-planning this type of poach is essential so your partner will know that he should move into the area you’ve vacated. An unplanned poach of this type can take your partner by surprise as much as your opponents, so your partner must be able to react quickly and step across to the other court as soon as possible. Yelling “switch” at the moment you move or using a pre-planned hand signal behind your back can be extremely helpful to ensure the success of this type of poach.
3. Sometimes players fake a poach by starting to move across and returning quickly to their own side of the court. Again, a verbal or hand signal indicating the fake ahead of time will allow your partner to take the shot as usual, despite your fake.

       Poaching is a good technique when done with a regular partner or one with whom you’ve discussed the possibility prior to play. There’s an etiquette to it, however. If you continually poach your partner’s shots, simply because you believe you have the better forehand, she may (rightly) feel upset. In regular, non-competitive play, poach for practice, but don’t overdo it, and make sure your partner knows that you don’t mind him poaching your shots, too. In competitive play, arrange poaching in advance to avoid controversy.
       When is the “right” time to poach? One of the best opportunities is when you are on the receiving team just after the finish of the two-bounce rule. 

       ​    In this example, Player A served the ball to Player D, who returned the ball back to Player A. With the double-bounce rule now satisfied, Player A would likely hit it back to Player D to keep him in the back court. This is an excellent opportunity for Player C to move across and poach the ball as it comes over the net. If player C remains in the right (even) court, Player D should move left to take her place (and also move forward to the net, if there is time to do so safely).
      Poaching is not without risk, and timing is crucial. Practice the maneuver and any associated signals with your partner. If you give yourself away too soon, your opponents will drive the ball to your now open court as you move across. Also, don’t poach so often that your opponents expect it of you, and your partner begins to dislike you for stealing all his shots.
            Which leads us back to etiquette . . .
          If you are playing recreational pickleball with a new partner who consistently poaches your shots, you might suggest that you won’t become a better player unless you’re allowed to hit the ball. If that doesn’t work, find a different partner.
          In a competitive situation, where points matter, follow the tips above to talk with your partner before the game. Poaching works best after you have a chance to learn your opponents’ patterns. If you see they consistently hit to your partner, poaching becomes a viable strategy, but only when it’s unexpected. As soon as your opponents think you’ll poach, the shot becomes a liability rather than an asset.
       ​      Take time to practice poaching with a partner and you'll add a valuable skill to your arsenal of tricks that can lead you to winning more often.